摄影
Nan Goldin 豆瓣
作者: Guido Costa Phaidon Press 2006 - 1
Nan Goldin is internationally recognized as one of today's leading photographers. Her photographs have been exhibited in museums and galleries worldwide, including SFMOMA, California, the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York, the Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam, Centre Pompidou, Paris and the Museu Reina Sofia, Madrid. Born in Washington DC, Goldin grew up in Boston where she began taking photographs at the age of fifteen. She has since lived in New York, Bangkok, Berlin, Tokyo and Paris, amassing an extensive body of work that represents a fascinating photographic portrait of our time. Since the 1980s Goldin has consistently created images that are intimate and compelling; they tell personal stories of relationships, friendships and identity, but simultaneously chronicle different eras and the passage of time. Her 'snapshot'-esque images of her friends - drag queens, drug addicts, lovers and family - are intense, searing portraits that, together, make a document of her life. Goldin herself has commented on her photographic style and philosophy, saying, 'My work originally came from the snapshot aesthetic ...Snapshots are taken out of love and to remember people, places, and shared times. They're about creating a history by recording a history.' Her work often breaks social taboos with its explicit exploration of relationships, sexuality and eroticism, and has also shown the devastating effect AIDS has had on her community of friends. Through its sequence of 55 images, Nan Goldin presents an overview of the photographer's entire career, and illustrates the development of the intimate and raw style for which Goldin has become internationally renowned.
被人遗忘的人:中国精神病人生存状况 豆瓣
9.5 (16 个评分) 作者: 吕楠 中国图书出版社 2008
《被遗忘的人》1989-1990年
吕楠的三部曲之旅是从拍摄精神病院起步的,从1989年开始,吕楠前后走访了38家精神病院和上百个患者家庭。每拍摄一个精神病人,只要条件和情况允许,吕楠都会进行面对面的采访,了解病人的身世、家庭背景和病情,并作记录,采访时间一般不少于一个小时。通常接下来的拍摄会再花一至两个小时。
有一次,吕楠在北京安定医院拍摄,在一间病房外面,遭遇了一个强壮的病人,吕楠本能地用手护住头,就在这时,那个病人却向他伸出一只手,要和他握手。在这一瞬间,吕楠被病人的友好和善良深深触动,此后,在吕楠的心目中,再也没有精神病这一概念,在他眼中,精神病人和所有的人一样,也有喜怒哀乐,也有正常的感情。
吕楠在拍摄中发现,精神病人在“文革”中一度被当作是没有远大理想的人群对待,毛泽东思想和毛泽东语录曾经被用来作为精神病人的治疗手段。他在四川一家精神病院的墙上看到一条标语:“没有正确的政治思想就等于没有灵魂。”那个“魂”的云字旁被人抠掉了,变成了“没有灵鬼”。
陶世茂,22岁,是四川一个偏僻农村里惟一的大学生。寒假回家时首次发病,杀死母亲,打伤父亲。极度恐惧的家人便把他关进石头房子里。每天为他送饭的是最疼爱他的85岁的奶奶。
采访完患者的家属,吕楠提出要见一见患者,患者家属用杠子为他抬开压在石头房子顶部沉重的石块。吕楠下到石头屋子里,和病人聊了一会天。在此之前从来没人敢下去,但吕楠却发现病人非常正常。只是因为石头屋子里面太暗,环境说明不了什么问题,吕楠才回到屋外。
患者的父亲和奶奶满面愁容地坐在石头房子前。吕楠和石头房子里的患者商量:我希望别人知道你在这样的屋子里,你的手能不能伸出一点来。患者照办了,于是,吕楠拍下了这张照片,这只从狭小洞孔里向外徒劳挥舞的手比出现完整的病人像更令人震撼。
在谈到精神病院拍摄时,吕楠反复提到的一个词是“尊严”。广西一家精神病院的重病者病房,全身赤裸的女病人站立在铁栅栏做成的铁门背后,双手搭在铁栏杆上,病房外的近景坐着一个老年女病人。照片旁的说明文字写着:重病者病房里23岁的女病人住院超过一个月,但她从来没有离开过13号病房。
吕楠说:“她可以坐在那里,也可以站在那里,也可以趴在那个上面,她可以在房间里的任何地方,而且事实也是如此。但是我要让她的尊严显现出来,只要她是歪七扭八地靠在这个门上面,我就不会拍。”
吕楠对女病人说道:你能站过来一点吗?病人按照吕楠说的靠近门站着。近景的老年病人本来也在病房外坐着,但是偏离画面,吕楠看见了,希望把她也加进取景框:如果不加进来,可能会有两层歧义,一、会让人觉得这家医院所有的病人都是关在房间里的,其实病房里的病人只是比较重的一个;另外,画面上没有老年女病人出现,房间里的人就太强了。
吕楠叫老年女病人坐过来一点,更靠近画面中心:“很多人慢待摄影,他们有一个事先虚设的前提:世界是为摄影师准备的,你‘咔嚓’一下就行了,没那样的事。你必须要调整,但是这个调整不能违背真实,调整要注意的是一定要够,但不能过。如果画面里没有关在房间里的女病人的话,就没有力量,老年女病人不过来,我也没法拍,我等她过来了,就开始拍,拍了五六卷,直到院方很客气地把我请出医院。”
吕楠对待所有的病人都一视同仁,即使是丧失行动和语言能力的病人。在一张照片旁边,吕楠写道:“天津的一家精神病院,她不会说话,是警察三年前在大街上捡的。她有破坏欲,医院不能为她提供衣服和被褥。一天中的大部分时间,她都是躺在地上,确切地说是躺在自己的尿和屎的混合物上。这些脏物一星期才会有人来打扫一次。拍照半年后,她死于这家医院。”面对这样的病人,吕楠按下快门的瞬间也是她挺直身子坐在没有床垫的床上,而不会是歪歪斜斜躺倒的样子。
吕楠在很多照片旁边都有简短说明,写下了病人的姓名、家庭、住院前后的基本状况。以前,别人问吕楠为什么要写那么多照片说明,吕楠也讲不明白,直到看到桑塔格在《旁观他人之痛苦》里对摄影家萨尔加多的作品提出了批评。桑塔格这样写道:“这些照片以孤苦无告的蚁民百姓为焦点,却又把他们打回孤苦无告的原形……他们的姓名在图片说明中一律从缺,拍摄人物照却不列出对象的姓名,等于是在有意无意之间与名流文化同流合污,同时助长了对另一种截然不同的摄影口味的贪婪需索:只授予名流姓名,而将其他人贬降为他们的职业、种族及惨况的代表性样本。”吕楠发现现在可以很地好回答这个问题:我写下说明文字的目的,就是为了不把他们的苦难当作他们的职业。
也有例外,画册里有一张拍摄于北京一家精神病院的照片,小女孩怀抱一只玩具熊猫,目光与镜头对视。吕楠在照片旁边用简短的文字写道:女孩,11岁。由于缺少儿童病房,中国绝大多数儿童患者只能同成年人住在一起。这些成年人不仅不会照顾他们,有时还会打他们。
画册上原来有小女孩的名字,但是在画册制版的当天晚上,吕楠考虑再三,还是把女孩的名字划掉了。吕楠担心女孩以后痊愈了,不愿意让人家知道她以前的经历,有名字就会带来麻烦。
耗时两年完成的《被遗忘的人》虽然具有强烈的视觉冲击力,但吕楠并没有强调病人的痛苦和惨状,而是以极其克制的拍摄手法,真实再现了精神病人的生存状态:“我拍完了精神病院以后,才理解病人的想法:医院外面才是精神病院呢。里面倒像教堂,像寺庙,像修道院,宁静至极,安静极了。”
The Americans 豆瓣 Goodreads
9.5 (8 个评分) 作者: Robert Frank / Jack Kerouac Scalo Publishers 1998 - 1
Previously published in 1959, Frank's most famous and influential photography book contained a series of deceptively simple photos that he took on a trip through America in 1955 and 1956. These pictures of everyday people still speak to us today, 40 years and several generations later.
Hedi Slimane 豆瓣
作者: Hedi Slimane (Author) / Francesco Bonami (Editor) Charta 2002 - 8
Brad Pitt was married in one of his suits, John Galliano dressed in one of his jackets to receive a prestigious award, Karl Lagerfeld never wears anything else, and women as dashing and fashionable as Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, and Cecilia Dean go drag to wear his designs. Hedi Slimane, the young designer who left Yves Saint Laurent to reinvent Christian Dior's menswear image, embraces "the cosmopolitanism of the old-school couturier" as well as "the conventional trappings of the modern-day überdesigner." He reconfigures classical pieces via subtle tailoring tricks, discreetly adding such dandified details as black leather carnation buttonholes, tiny emerald-cut diamond pins clipped to a pant fly, and clear sequins dispersed in the folds of pleats. He is the leader of an anti-technological, anti-velcro revolution that is striving to take men's fashions forward to the luxurious, armorial, sophisticated standards of time past. As Slimane himself has said, "For me, tradition is now." Intermission was conceived and built by Slimane himself as an artist's book. Published in collaboration with Pitti Immagine.