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Yohji Yamamoto: Talking to Myself 豆瓣 Goodreads
作者: Peter Lindbergh (Author) / Nick Knight (Editor) Steidl/Carla Sozzani 2002 - 11 其它标题: Yohji Yamamoto
French electronic musician Jean-Michel Jarre once defined Yohji Yamamoto's style like "For me, a woman in Yohji is like a nymphomaniac nun. His clothes are at once sensual and very ritualistic." This about a man whose reputation marks him as a designer of clothes for earnest intellectuals. This about a man whose 1998 "wedding" show featured a bridal striptease which took models from inflated Victorian crinolines down to slim-line dresses and pants. This about a man who is one of the most revered and idiosyncratic of 20th century designers. In Talking to Myself , Yamamoto has created an illustrated notebook that recounts the phases of his life. A work in progress punctuated with multiple images, Talking to Myself is the only book in which Yamamoto has become personally involved, making it a veritable extension of his own private world. In it, he "talks to himself" and with philosopher and art/fashion critic Kiyokazu Washida about himself and the objects he creates, objects that meld, blend with, and are assimilated by the person they seek to enhance. Pages marked by Yamamoto's pen and brush with Japanese ideograms, striking sketches, and abstract compositions help decipher his desire to achieve anti-fashion through fashion itself. Yamamoto's world is one of black and white symbols, a world in which color makes only a fleeting appearance.
2009年2月10日 想读
Shoes, Shoes, Shoes 豆瓣
作者: Andy Warhol Bulfinch 1997 - 4
Fashion lovers rejoice! These swank little books showcase Andy' Warhol's inimitable pictures and pronouncements on shoes and style -- and make ideal gifts for serious shoppers everywhere. Shoes, Shoes, Shoes collects a closetful of high heels, loafers, mules, boots, and sandals, including iconic images from Warhol's Pop heyday as well as rarely seen early advertising illustrations. Accompanied throughout by witty quotes -- "I decided that being a shoe salesman is a really sexy job", for example -- these forty drawings, watercolors, and prints demonstrate Warhol's special talent for transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary. Style, Style, Style offers a cavalcade of forty striking fashion images -- slinky dresses, whimsical period costumes, sprightly scarves, ultrachic bijoux, and more, all drawn from Warhol's archives. Sprinkled throughout with the artist's droll quips and playful epigrams, this stylish minibook conjures up all the decadent pleasures of a shopping spree -- at only a fraction of the cost.
2009年2月10日 想读
Historical Fashion in Detail 豆瓣
作者: Avril Hart / Susan North Victoria & Albert Museum 2003 - 5
Now available from Abrams, this popular book offers a rare, close-up look at the exquisite, labor-intensive details seen in fine historical clothing. Perfect decorative seams, minute stitching, knife-sharp pleats, and voluptuous drapery--all are here, alongside more unusual techniques such as stamping, pinking, and slashing. Most of these effects cannot be replicated by machine, yet many of today's fashion designers take their inspiration from the past, adapting these details to a more contemporary idiom, and to the realities of modern manufacturing.
Drawing from the Victoria and Albert Museum's world-famous collections, the book contains a gallery of exquisite photographs, accompanied by clear line drawings showing the construction of the complete garment and a text that sets each in the context of its time. This book will appeal to anyone interested in fashion, historical costume, or textile history, from cut and construct to fabric and trimmings.
2009年2月10日 想读
别名格雷斯 豆瓣
Alias Grace
7.6 (5 个评分) 作者: [加] 玛格丽特·阿特伍德 译者: 梅江海 南京大学出版社 2008
本书是以加拿大19世纪40年代一桩罪案为底本,所讲述的一个错综复杂却充满诗意氛围的故事。本书的一部分像是一部现实主义作品,那些关于卑微女佣的艰辛、小小的希望和欢乐,而后又似乎转入了心理学、神秘主义甚至是神学的层面,那些大脑中的恶魔,“自由选择的邪恶”,再旁观四周,年轻有抱负想开精神病医院的男主人公本想借格雷斯成名却自陷其中差点崩溃……展现了最为广阔的特定时期社会画卷。
2009年2月10日 想读
Heroines 豆瓣
作者: Bettina Rheims / Catherine Millet Schirmer/Mosel 2007 - 5
50 models in 2005 haute couture creations staged and photographed by Bettina Rheims. Her pictures don’t simply transform glamorous nymphettes into fashion photos. They subtly subvert the commercial, voyeuristic gaze, opening up fascinatingly unsettling views into the world of fashion and those who wear it.
2009年2月10日 想读
三四五区间的联姻 豆瓣
作者: 多丽丝莱辛 译者: 俞婷 南京大学出版社 2008 - 11
多丽丝•莱辛在其著名的“太空小说”系列《南船座中的老人星:档案》中塑造了一个全新的、神秘的宇宙,在那里,地球的命运由三个强大的银河帝国之间的相互斗争和作用所主宰。《三四五区间的联姻》是其中的一部,故事发生在一个围绕地球的奇怪领域,那里的土地面积广袤无垠,一共有三个区:三区,一个平静安宁,百姓安居乐业的天堂,是一个由温和文雅的Al女王统治的女权社会;它的邻区,四区, 却是一个战争不断,混乱动荡的地狱,由残暴好战的国王Ben-Ata统治。他们两区的联姻,极端男权和女权的融合,预示着整个银河帝国的动摇、瓦解……
多丽丝•莱辛在一个特别的领域中,全神贯注于展现两性之间彼此支配的平衡性和相互需要。这是一部幻想的神话,充满强有力的、浪漫的思想。
——Gay Firth, The Times
多丽丝•莱辛选择用神话故事的语言,来记录人间俗世的记忆——两性之间的爱情,他们的对抗,以及他们狂喜的瞬间。她的笔法是间接的,令人愉快的,始终如猫一般柔软诡异。
——Marina Warner, Sunday Times
《三四五区间的联姻》是展现两性关系的女权主义的寓言,书中出乎意外和富有想象力的事物,使此书沉溺于自身独特的叙述和栩栩如生的形象塑造,从而充满了持续不断的吸引力。
——Robert Towers, New York Times
2009年2月10日 想读
辩证法的历险 豆瓣
作者: 梅洛-庞蒂 译者: 杨大春 / 张尧均 上海译文出版社 2009 - 1
法国存在主义哲学家梅劳—庞蒂的主要哲学著作之一。1955年出版。全书除前言外,正文共分五章:第一章主要阐述马克斯·韦伯的哲学思想;第二章论述由卢卡奇创立的“西方马克思主义”;第三章阐述同“西方马克思主义”对立的列宁主义;第四章论述“共产主义哲学中的二律背反”与“行动中的二律背反”;第五章评论萨特靠近共产党的激进立场。作者在前言中指出,“本书不是要在政治基础上,而是要在政治哲学的基础上罗列经验。”即从政治着眼,考察本世纪以来辩证法思想的历史演变。书中通过阐述“西方马克思主义”,来揭露“今天的共产主义”“抛弃了什么,对什么退让了”,从而阐明作者对“西方马克思主义”的推崇和对列宁主义的仇视。在本体论方面,作者否认物质的客观性,认为物质不是指存在于意识之外的客观实在,而是仅仅指作为实践支撑点的物质,似乎离开实践,物质就不存在,只是抽象的“形而上学”。否认辩证法的客观性和普遍性,不仅把辩证法归结为主客体关系,而且宣称辩证法“就是连续的直觉,就是对有后果的历史的持续阅读”。自然辩证法“只是在一种次要和派生的意义上”才存在,它是恩格斯从黑格尔那里接受来的“冒险主张”和“最经不起推敲的部分”。当代马克思主义的所谓“历史惰性”,正是由于把辩证法归于物质而造成的。在认识论方面,作者把主体性的“痛苦关系”看作“大体近似的”实践,但认为实践并不是人类改造客观世界的物质活动,而是一种和阶级意识等同的东西。实践是“无产者的共同境况”,是“一种柔软的可以变形的体系”,“力学中的一种虚拟的矢量,一种祈求,一种状态的可能性,一种历史选择的原则,一种存在的草图”。书中指责列宁在《唯物主义和经验批判主义》中所阐述的辩证唯物主义认识论是一种“独断论”、“形而上学”、“实证主义”、“自然主义”,“在政治上的极权主义”。在历史观方面,作者否认历史发展的客观必然性,认为历史的发展变化不存在绝对真理,全是偶然性的堆砌,认为革命发生并不是历史的客观必然产物,并且把革命和专政对立起来,主张只要民主,反对专政,公开鼓吹托洛茨基的“不断革命论”。该书出版后,曾受到法国共产党的批评。
2009年2月10日 想读
悉达多 豆瓣 谷歌图书
9.0 (246 个评分) 作者: [德] 赫尔曼·黑塞 / 校注 丁君君 译者: 杨玉功 译 / 丁君君 校 上海人民出版社 2009 - 3
古印度贵族青年悉达多英俊聪慧,拥有人们羡慕的一切。为了追求心灵的安宁,他孤身一人展开了求道之旅。他在舍卫城聆听佛陀乔答摩宣讲教义,在繁华的大城中结识了名妓伽摩拉,并成为一名富商。心灵与肉体的享受达到顶峰,却让他对自己厌倦、鄙弃到极点。在与伽摩拉最后一次欢爱之后,他抛弃了自己所有世俗的一切,来到那河边,想结束自己的生命。在那最绝望的一刹那,他突然听到了生命之河永恒的声音……经过几乎一生的追求,悉达多终于体验到万事万物的圆融统一,所有生命的不可摧毁的本性,并最终将自我融入了瞬间的永恒之中。
2009年2月10日 想读
Hellen Van Meene: Portraits 豆瓣
作者: Hellen Van Meene Aperture
For the past seven years, Hellen van Meene has been producing intimate portraits of adolescents. Though the introspective gaze of her models suggest that these are spontaneous, private moments in the lives of her subjects, the carefully considered natural light, lush textures, and striking compositions betray van Meene's hand in choreographing each image down to the finest detail. Throughout, the picturesque qualities are undercut by a disquieting tension: the models' clothes are ill-fitting or inside-out; one girl is asked to lie in a cold bath, fully clothed; another models a fresh bruise. This intimate collaboration between the photographer and her models simultaneously exposes the uncertain nature of adolescent identities and the complicated act of capturing them on film.
2009年2月10日 想读
Maison Martin Margiela 豆瓣
作者: Martin Margiela Maison Martin Margiela 2000 - 1
Dolls clothes and photoprints, transparent dresses, halved sweaters worn on top of other garments, external seams pieces, flat clothing, hand-painted jeans worn under a dress or a skirt, these are some examples of what has come from past Martin Margiela collections. His creations are known for their mixture of innovation and wearability, for his ingenious solutions to how a garment's essential elements can be re-imagined. This two-volume set presents the two editions of Street magazine devoted to Margiela's work, and offers a complete and expansive view of the first 10 years and 20 collections of Maison Martin Margiela. Originally available only in Japan, these two volumes contain many previously unpublished photographs selected from the archives of Maison Martin Margiela. Volume 1 covers his collections from Spring/Summer 1989 up to Autumn/Winter 1995-1996, and Volume 2 covers all of his collections for women up to Spring/Summer 1999, as well as the first presentation of 10, a wardrobe for men, and Maison Martin Margiela's participation in three exhibitions held in, Brussels, Florence, and Rotterdam.
2009年2月10日 想读
6+ Antwerp Fashion 豆瓣
作者: Geert Bruloot / Debo Kaat Ludion Editions NV 2007 - 2
The international success story of Antwerp fashion
The Six (Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee): a household name in the fashion world. The group name was launched by British journalists in the late 1980s, but it has turned out to be a curse as well as a blessing because it has pushed the identity of each designer in the group into the background and become a flag that long ceased to match the content. Antwerp fashion has undergone a major development, and the story of ‘the Antwerp Six’ needs to be set within a wider perspective. That is the purpose of the exhibition 6+. Antwerpse Mode in the Flemish Parliament building.
The exhibition and catalogue place Antwerp fashion and the designers who received their training in Antwerp within a broad historical and artistic context. The plus sign in the title refers to Martin Margiela, often mentioned along with the Six, and to the later generations of designers who have in turn added new facets to Antwerp fashion.
This books brings you the international success story of Antwerp fashion in four parts. The first focuses on the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp. Unique photo and video documents show how the local fashion design department with its Parisian orientation grew to become the famous Fashion Academy.
The second part covers the 6+: ‘the Six’ and Martin Margiela, their shared ambition and development and The Golden Spool competitions, the turning-point that marked their real start.
Part three deals with the new generation, the second wave of Antwerp designers who have achieved an international reputation, such as Raf Simons, Véronique Branquinho, A.F. Vandevorst, Lieve Van Gorp, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe, and Bernhard Willem.
There are also many talented students from the Academy who decided not to operate as designers under their own name but to join the international world of fashion as art directors, stylists or photographers. They often play a large part in creating the image that the well-known international houses present. Part four provides a survey of those designers, who have an evident connection with the Antwerp school.
2009年2月10日 想读
Art Now 豆瓣
作者: Uta Grosenick Taschen GmbH 2005 - 4
Contemporary art in a nutshell (TASCHEN's 25th anniversary special edition) This Art Now 25th anniversary special edition brings together recent work and biographical information for over 80 of today's most influential artists, forming a broad and vibrant spectrum of the work that has shaped the art world in recent years. Featured artists include: Matthew Barney, Maurizio Cattelan, John Currin, Tacita Dean, Thomas Demand, Rineke Dijkstra, Douglas Gordon, Andreas Gursky, Thomas Hirschhorn, Damien Hirst, Mike Kelley, Martin Kippenberger, Jeff Koons, Sharon Lockhart, Won Ju Lim, Paul McCarthy, Mariko Mori, Sarah Morris, Vik Muniz, Takashi Murakami, Shirin Neshat, Albert Oehlen, Chris Ofili, Gabriel Orozco, Jorge Pardo, Elizabeth Peyton, Thomas Ruff, Cindy Sherman, Thomas Struth, Wolfgang Tillmans, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Luc Tuymans, Jeff Wall, and Andrea Zittel.
2009年2月10日 想读
逃亡者 豆瓣
作者: 克里斯蒂安·加伊 译者: 王战 赵家鹤 1999 - 7
“我应该,但却没有心境,没有品味也没有开赋来写小说。”
1943年出生,已经在午夜出版社发表了九部小说的克里斯蒂安・加伊如是说。以自谦的方式向小说发问,这是加伊写作技巧的另一种体现。
作为一名同样具有极少主义特征的小说家,加伊的每一部作品都涉及到一个空间──真理的空间、矛盾的空间,其中欲望与柔情、轻浮并存。为了获得治愈某些伤痛的喜悦,加伊习惯于揭开另一些伤疤,这就是他的那些故事既朴实无华又令人焦虑的原因。他讲述事物的空虚时,所用的却是有力的、带电的语言。这种充满断裂、缩写词和句子成分被颠倒的极富个人特色的语言,越过了沉默和谨慎的界线,声速地将空洞填满,并且赋予了事物以身体。
我们还可以说,加伊是一位爱情作家,一位夫妻作家和写夫妻生活历险的作家。他笔下的爱情故事既是艰深莫测的,又是无比精致的,一切看似矛盾的欲望和习惯集中在同一个人物身上。这一切都非同寻常。
2009年2月10日 想读
Swinging Sixties 豆瓣
作者: Christopher Breward Harry N Abrams Inc 2006 - 5
Austin Powers mercilessly parodied the look, but the films enormous success proved the enduring influence of mid-60s London fashion. In April 1966, Time famously touted London as the new world center of style. Forty years later, this book reconsiders the roles played by designers like Mary Quant, celebrities like Twiggy, boutiques like Biba, photographers like David Bailey, magazines, and filmmakers in promoting a new, more relaxed, more colorful way of dressing that reverberated around the world. Illustrated with key pieces from the V&A s fashion collection plus contemporary photos, posters, and ephemera, the book relates fashion to the rapidly changing social, economic, and aesthetic context of the times, arguing for the central role it played not just on Carnaby Street, but in 60 s pop culture.
2009年2月10日 想读